Friday, January 23, 2009
I swear I'm never coming home!!!
Im feeling badly that I have not posted in two days but five hours of surfing makes you really "nackered"(I love english people)!! I had just enough energy after yesterdays activities to eat dinner and sit in the hot tub gazing at the stars and have a "cider"(Again I love english people) with Will and Kate! Yesterday me and about five other people (three boys and two girls) were deemed good enough by our surf instructors to paddle out the back to the bigger break. It was amazing. I also went from a 7'10" board to a 7"2" board. It was the most amazing thing I have ever done. I am surprised at how much progress I am making so quickly. I was able to keep up with the local surfers, who have ad quite a bit of experience. I wind was coming off shore(means perfectly shaped waves with NO wind and NO chop). It was the first time I have surfed waves that come in sets. I would guess they were about 4-5 feet, huge by my standards!!! But today the wind was blowing on shore so the waves were smaller and choppier, but still great!!! Yesterday after we surfed we went and watch the under 8 kids Football(soccer) team that TTRIDE sponsors! It was sooooooo cool. It was the first time I have seem real poverty in africa...the way the children live. And they were the happiest kids I have ever seen. The girls who were ribbon dancing on the side fell in love with me for some reason. And when I took out my camera to take a picture of them it too about 4 seconds for them to pull it out of my hand and trade off taking picture of anyting and everything. Many of them had never seen cameras before. I will put up the pictures when I find my camera connector!! The girls taught me and will some of the traditional dances they do. We have a VERY funny video of this that I will also put up! Tomorrow we are taking those same boys/girls to the beach to go swimming and play beach football, I am very excitited! Then we went across the street to an outdoor pub and had a few before dinner drinks with my group and our instructors! It was the first time I have ever had cider, and it was THE BEST drink I have ever had. I really love every person on this trip, we are all very different but get along so well. Each day here is full of laughter and smiles. But its hard NOT to be in a good mood after a full day of surfing and seeing the most amazing and beautiful places and people I have ever seen. The beaches and towns here are built on the side of mountains and cliffs which hold perfect white and beaches at the base. It is SOOOOO charming! Not to mention the average temp is about 87!!! I have to go becuase were leaving to head down to a local restaurant and have dinner then go out to a bar but I will tell you all more tomorrow!!!! Much love xoxo
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